Southern Lazio (the area south of Rome) includes many splendid examples of the fortified hill communities that sprang up throughout Italy in the Middle ages. The area is one of natural beauty with mountains, lakes, woods, valleys, and the sea. Once you leave the A1, which cuts through Southern Lazio between Rome and Naples, narrow two lane roads wind through small towns and villages leading the visitor to the many medieval hill top towns. The Via Appia (the Roman Appian Way) cuts almost directly south to the seaside resort towns of Terracina and Gaeta on the Gulf of Gaeta.

The Bloody-Thirsty Door (Porta Sanguinaria) at left in Ferentino illustrates the settlements of Southern Lazio beginning with the early pre-Roman tribes through the medieval period. The lower layer---which was built by the ancient Ernici---is made of large irregular stones, the middle layer is made of Roman squared stones, while the third and top layer was added in the middle ages.

Pre-History and History

The presence of man in Lazio goes back 750,000 years. Archaeological finds suggest that Neanderthals lived in the caves of Circeo. After the ice age, the Pontine region was dominated by wide forests where elephant, rhinocerous, and hippopotamus roamed. Man lived essentially by hunting with tools manufactured from marine stones. The herbaceous vegitation gradually gave way to a immense steppe populated by horses, wild boars, red deer, and so forth. Most archaeological finds of this period are found along the shoreline where life was easier. Centers of habitation developed by the sea during the bronze and iron ages (1600-800 B.C.E.).

Gradually, villages were formed and population centers developed in areas of easy access to the Tyrrhenian sea where obsidian could be found. The first known settlements in Latium were small hut villages located on low hills overlooking the plains. These pre-Roman Italic peoples were called Latins. Thus the area was known as Latium.

As an agricultrual, pastorial, and commercial economy grew, specialized crafts gradually developed and trade increased. By 730-630 B.C.E the Latin settlements supported a wealthy aristocracy. Even today many structures, such as megalithic or "Cyclopean" walls, built by these pre-Roman peoples still stand well preserved and completely intact. Contact between population areas was made through natural access routes between the mountains and the sea via river valleys. During the Roman period, these access routes became the Roman roads.

One of the chief natural lines of communication form the coast to the interior ran along the Tiber river. The lowest available crossing point occurs where Rome was established. The natural advantages of this site were recognized early on. Produce from inland regions, and sea borne commerce from abroad were easily brought to the location.

Little is known about the early history of Rome. Traces of primative huts dating to the 8th century B.C.E. have been found on the Palatine Hill although other finds in the valley of the Forum suggest that the site had been occupied from at least the 10th century. Most Roman writers believed that the city was founded in the 8th century B.C.E. putting forth dates of 753, 751, 748, and 728. From about 770 B.C.E onwards a rise in the population occurred and the settlement began to take on the appearance of a fully urbanized community.

As Rome expanded, local wars and petty disputes occurred with its neighbors. The Roman empire gradually expanded its borders engulfing many Latin towns and villages in the process. By the 6th century B.C.E., Rome had extended its influence over a wide area and was considered to be the chief city in the territory. Also during the sixth century B.C.E., a Federation of Latin States under Rome formed. Latins who were not Roman subjects were warned not to attack the cities under Roman influence and to build no forts in Latin territory. The inhabitants of the Latin cities were incorporated into the Roman state and became Roman citizens. In return, they were obligated to supply Rome with soldiers. The Latins struggled to resist Rome's attempts to expand its influence over them and fought many wars with Rome. However, most Latin cities finally came under Rome's sway by 338 B.C.E.

Large areas were annexed and colonized by the Romans. The area of southern Lazio including Velletri, Frosinone, Terracina, Gaeta, and areas south towards Naples plus the Lepini and Ernici Mountains was called Campania. Today this area is called Ciociaria. The Term "Ciociaria" may have derived from leather footwear called "ciocia" that was worn by the shepherds when they worked in the fields. The area of Southern Lazio lying along the coast down to the Circeo belonged to the Roman Marine region (Marittima) and is today called the Pontine Plain.

Rome also founded colonies at strategic points near the borders of Latium. After 338 B.C.E., Rome began to establish military outposts in enemy territory. Terracina was one such military garrison colony.

In 405 C.E. hoards of barbarians crossed the Rhine River and began invading the northern provences of the Roman Empire. By 476, the last Roman Emperor was forced to abdicate by the barbarian general Odoacer. As the northern provences gradually cut their ties to Rome, in Rome itself the papacy began to accrue power. Southern Lazio was eventually incorporated into the Papal States.

During the middle ages, the hill towns of southern Lazio became a popular destination for the Popes who went there to get away from Rome and to establish permanent residences. Anagni is often called the "city of the Popes" because so many Popes established residences there. The Abbey of Monte Cassino was founded by Saint Benedict in 529 and became an important religious center.

The hill towns of southern Lazio have retained their medieval character. Many towns continue their agricultural traditions, while others have capitalized on the mineral springs located nearby. Fiuggi is famous for its waters which Pope Boniface VIII claimed cured his kidney stones. The baths of Pompey, located near Ferentino, are credited with curing rheumatism, breathing problems, and gynecological diseases.

Southern Lazio's mountain region assures a healthy climate and attracts many tourists from nearby Rome. Its medieval buildings, fortresses, and walled towns attract both scholars and tourists. The seaside of southern Lazio is also a popular destination for tourists who flock to the seaside resorts of Terracina and Gaeta.

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